1. New battery
2. New air filter
3. Drain tank/carbs, 1/2 fill only and 1 bottle of Wynns fuel system cleaner.
4. Check valve clearances
5. Replace engine oil & filter, and then do it again after the motor has been running/bike ridden.
6. Replace brake fluid - if you get any leaks from the calipers after a bleed, then do the brake rubbers. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.
7. Give the wheels a spin by hand while on the c/stand. If you can hear any noises, or the wheel doesn't spin freely or feels a bit *howyagoin* ( thats a technical term for fucked) - then do the bearings. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother.
8. Check the chain tension and give it some chain lube.
9. Give all control cables a lube.
10. Change the tyres if you really *have* to. Otherwise, I would keep using the old ones....at least for a while, get your money's worth mate
11. Probably worth giving the steering head bearings a re-grease, or even replace them with tapered bearings if the bike is still fitted with the original ball-and-race bearings....definitely worth greasing up the swingarm pivot, and torquing this back up to OEM spec (tight).
12. *Maybe* replace the fork oil if the front end feels a bit *howyagoin* when you go for that first ride. Fresh fork oil does feel and work better than old stuff. Fork seals should be replaced if you get a ring up the fork leg.
13. Depending on what shocks are fitted to the rear.....I would probably look at replacing those as well. 7610 Ikon's are the go, or perhaps a set of Hagon shocks from Moose Racing in Melbourne. They do a nice repro-style with the chromed spring cover for <$400 a pair.
14. The seat foam will probably be fucked (dried out) after so many years. But....it may also be OK. Only replace this if its really needed.
15. Handgrips - these are also likely to be worn/stretched/falling apart (sounds like my ex...). Its definitely worth replacing these with new ones.
16. Lube the speedo and tacho cables.
17. A spray of WD40 inside the switch blocks is a good idea. Spiders hate this shit !
18. Lube the rear brake pedal pivot with a light film of grease, not WD40.
19. Replace all fuses - preferably replace the entire fuse-box with a box using blade-fuses. The old glass-type fuse used in these bikes are getting harder to find, and in some regional garages, are not stocked at all. You can get blade fuses pretty much anywhere.
20. Do the ignition-coil modification. Basically, you wire a relay into the start circuit, and power both ignition coils from the relay. Use the kill-switch supply to the coils as the +12v source for the relay. This provides a much-improved source of +12v power to the ignition coils - the result is better (instant) starting, and better overall running. Just use a normal automotive 12v relay with 2 outputs, and these are connected to the ignition coils. Great mod !
21. Once you get the old girl running properly, balance the carbies.
22. Replace the fuel filter (if fitted) - probably a good idea to replace all fuel lines anyway, they will be old and perished.....a bit *howyagoin* .....
23. The sidecover grommets may be dried/perished as well after this time in storage. If they are cracked, then replace all 6, otherwise you will lose your sidecovers the first time you wind her out....they cost a bob these days...
Thats about all I can think of, off the top of my head. Good luck with the project !!
and some pictures when you are finished would be nice....
cheers
Dr Z