1977 z1000 a1 - modifications

[Kwakked Up]

Well folks, the stars all aligned late this afternoon.

Fitted up the stock rear wheel into the GS1100 swing arm, I needed spacers and discovered 2000 - 2003 KTM / 2001 - 2004 left hand front wheel spacer fits perfectly.
Inner diameter 20mm and 15mm wide, one for each side. Works a treat !!!!!!!

Also have Gazi Hyper X shocks which fitted up nicely and look really nice, just hoping they work as well as they look.

If I get a good a bit of time somewhere in next few weeks I hope to at least get a rolling chassis. Am celebrating now, shit if I keep drinking at this rate I will be posting on the "2 out of it post thread"

[Jonno]

Gotta love a plan that was never planned comming together like that

How many KTM's were scavenged from to find this out

[Kwakked Up]

Dr google is a freakin genius

[Phubar1]

Just noticed this thread - if you got time have a look at Fezz's project

http://www.halfofmylife.com/on-two-whee ... storation/

some good photos and some mods (back in the day) they used for racing to give it better stability

[Gosling1]

....Just noticed this thread - if you got time have a look at Fezz's project....

there is already a good thread on this site about the Shadowfax restoration mate

[Kwakked Up]

Hey Gos

I want to strip the motor down so I know she is good to go before I put it in, just wondering if you would have recommendations

cheers

[Gosling1]

pulling the top-end down is pretty easy - these old motors always appreciate a new cam chain, and a manual tensioner from APE should also be fitted - the OEM tensioners are way past their use-by date now......and new ones are stupid expensive.

You can get new idler wheels for the cam chain if you need.....if the old ones only have a bit of lateral play then they should be right to re-use, for street use. If you were building up a race motor, you would replace these with Liska cam wheels from Debben Performance. Liska do a few replacement parts for the top-end.

New valve-stem seals are almost mandatory, if you haven't changed these recently.

If the piston-bore clearances are still in spec, and the bores look OK - then you can re-use the old pistons. Unless you want a completely new top-end of course . Gasket kits I get from BK Performance in Qld, Athena gasket full-rebuild kits include exhaust gaskets and valve-stem seals ....

Unless you have had clutch and/or gearbox issues, I would not bother splitting the cases to check this out - you can of course just do the clutch plates themselves without splitting the cases - you only need to go digging in here if the bike has been jumping out of gear and you need to replace selector forks etc......otherwise, the bottom-ends in these motors are essentially indestructible.

Its also worth checking the seats on the valves, and you can do this when you change the valve-stem seals. It does require a special tool, so you can get the collets off the stems, but if you do want to do this let me know, I can give you the specs for a home-made tool which does this job easily - basically a big G-clamp with a special fitting at the stem end....

anything else, just sing out.

[Kwakked Up]

Thanks Gos, much appreciated.

Now I just need to figure out whether I have the time and patience or whether I bight the bullet and pay the $$$'s to get someone to do it. I want her on the road now but time has been my biggest problem lately.

cheers

[Kwakked Up]

Sad news folks, I sold the ZX14 this week, I am absolutely gutted At least I still have the ZX10 and thats a hoot to ride just not as comfy but cant complain

Flip side is now I can buy some stuff for the project and get her moving again.

[Kwakked Up]

I was just reading a little about fitting up a later model heads from a gpz/1100 or Z1000J with bigger valves to the bottom end of a z1000 motor to get better flow. Researched a little more and it sounded like that would drop my compression ratio so would need to fit different pistons. So if fitting new pistons why not just go oversize maybe 1075 or 1200 ape performance have some interesting stuff, so then where can i get a slipper clutch for the beasty? Just got me to thinking is all Too much stupid thinking

My point is I dont want to throw ridiculous $$ at the motor so am wondering what cheap horses I can get or best bang for buck.

I see that Debben Performance do a 530 chain conversion kit? just wondering what would be more betterer a 530 chain or the 520 conversion that Gos posted in another thread?

[Gosling1]

The GPz/J head conversion to an early bottom end is pretty common - all you need to do is get the adapter kit for the top cam roller. Not sure that fitting one of these heads would drop the c/r though ? Especially if you fitted up a ZX1100 head (the last of the air-cooled injected GPz's) - these had a static c/r of 10.25:1 - the combustion chamber is all built up and this head also has some mods to the exhaust-valve angle - it is steeper than all the earlier heads.

You can get similiar flow in the early heads with just a mild port job and using larger valves. Stock Z-series valve size is 36mm inlet and 30mm exhaust. The GPz / J heads used 37mm inlets and 32mm exhausts. You can go up to 37.5mm inlet on stock seats in the early heads. The benefit though of the conversion, is that if you get a complete head with all valves, shims etc in good nick, you get all these big valves with the stock head - they do flow a bit better than the early heads there is no doubt about that.

APE sell the top-roller conversions - its pretty easy to do. I used an old set of GPz1100 B1 pistons in the Black Pearl years ago, these had already done 100,000km when I got them, we just used new rings and bored the barrel to suit - B1 pistons (as are all the 1100 series) are 72.5mm which gives you 1089cc total capacity. 73mm Wisecos will give you 1105cc.

Slipper clutch is overrated on these old girls. If you were drag racing you would fit a centrifugal clutch. It is possible to fit a ZX7RR clutch to a MkII motor, but its a lot of work. These clutches are slipper clutches from the factory, but require accurate shimming to get the slipper working properly - they are also designed for high-revving 4-valve 750's (and the engine characteristics that come with ZX7RR motors) rather than the slow-revving grunty 1100 2-valve fours.

Debben do a 530 kit but you can do this yourself with stock OEM kawasaki bits off the right models. I have changed every large capacity Z I own to a 530 conversion, and yeh the Pearl now has advanced to a 520 conversion - it works well but I am still not convinced about the final gearing......there are limits to what can be done with OEM 520 sprockets because you are restricted to original manufacturers specifications.

[Phil]

Fuck me Gos, you are walking Z encyclopedia

[Phil]

And I can vouch for the Pearls, um fitness

[z900/zx9]

If you want to do it with minimun fuss,fit 1015 barrells high comp pistons and smoothbore carbs then get it dyno tuned.

[Gosling1]

......If you want to do it with minimun fuss,fit 1015 barrells high comp pistons and smoothbore carbs then get it dyno tuned.....

I think this bike already has the 1015 barrels Mal ? Hi-comp pistons and some smooth-bore 29mm or 31mm carbs would do the business though - I would add some good cams to those.