OCD

Hi Gav. im running it off an auxillary tank ( my lawn mower which i prob wont need for another year now) at present so i can access the carbs easier. I have put a kit through the fuel tap but am yet to try it with the tank on. Perhaps its starving for fuel by having a smaller dia tap on the mower tank. Ill fit up the actual tank tomorrow after i do a membrane repair on no 4.

Good luck. I hope it works out. When. I did the whole fuel/petcock thing my mech said that its very important to have this working correctly as there is a vacuum element that regulates flow?...when mine is running it pulsates. Before I replaced/recoed this it was like it was running on two cylinders.Mate, hope that helps.

Gav has pinged it I think mate - there is a a vacuum line to the fuel tap which must be hooked up to get the fuel tap working properly. It is a smaller diameter tube than fuel hose and goes to the vacuum fitting between #1 and #2 cylinders. The other vacuum fittings should all have rubber caps on them.

Using the mower tank means that this vacuum line is probably hanging in the breeze ? This will mean a massive air-leak and give you exactly the same symptoms as a busted diaphragm. From the description of the diaphragm I don't think this will be causing you any problems. (I just assumed you were running the bike from the standard tank with all the lines hooked up )

If previous suggestions don't work, check throttle tube is not binding and check carb slides for wear. Slightly worn slides can hang up, causing revs to drop slowly. Worn tube can also hang up. Also make sure the grip isn't binding on the throttle cable housing on the bars.

hi guys. Thanks for all the tips. this is what i really like about this forum. I sourcing some liquid tape tommorrow and ill repair any and all little cracks to remove possible causes. I pulled out the plugs to see how they look and 1= black, 2= dark tan, 3 lt grey and 4 grey. I'll open up the airscrew 1/4 turn on 3 & 4 to see how this affects the colours but could this relate to the airbox design with foam element on the battery side to the paper element on the other side thus creating 3,4 to be a bit leaner? Id rather err on the side of rich rather than too lean.

Depends how lean. Kawasaki motors of that era do like a leaner mix. They make more power running slightly leaner. Also, could you perhaps post some pics of the plugs. If it's running on ULP, it's a really difficult thing to determine how rich It's running. Normally, all you can tell, is that one or more is running leaner as they aren't as black. But as to if they are running at the right mix, you need either an O2 sensor or a really good seat of the pants feel and lots of laps.......

i just looked at the jet needle and it is sitting at the second spot from the pointy end. the engine this carburettor bank came off was on its first oversize. the book is saying 2nd clip from the top. I take it that this means the end with the writing stamped in and opposite to what it is at the moment?would this cause it to run too rich? Ive also changed the muffler from the tranzac stubby one to the stocker but have drilled a few holes in it to compensate for the 4-1 headers.Sounds a bit better than the tranzac one id repacked it prior to fitting and the engine seems a bit happier. I like loud but this wasnt a nice loud.more like lawn mower loud.

2nd clip position from the top is 1 position leaner than stock - normally, the middle clip position is stock - this is the 3rd clip position (counting down from the top of the needle). 4th clip position (where it is now ) would mean a slightly richer mixture. This is where you want them if you are running pods and a good free-flowing 4-1 exhaust and muffler. It wont run *too* rich in the 4th clip position , after all this is just 1 clip richer than stock. The main jet is the most important one when it comes to jetting being too rich or lean. Did you have a look at the size of the mains ? its normally stamped around the actual hole or sometimes can be down the side of the jet....

not yet but will tomorrow.

86 on the secondary mains 64 on the primary and 32 on the pilot.This model carb had two mains which they changed to single mains in 84. Found info saying that i should replace the 86 for 110 and then drill the offset hole in the piston. http://www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburet ... ion-wanted.

I took them off ,again, and cleaned all passageways again, so to remove one part of the equation i left off the airbox when i refitted them. started it up with pods and ran okay. gave it a rev after it had warmed up a bit and suddenly its running at 4000 and hesitant to drop in revs. Gave the throttle a twist and releasese ( it snapped back ok), nothing, gave a bigger twist and release (Still snapped back ok), nothing, wound the idle back out and voila it dropped to idle. so i dissassembled the idle adjuster and noticed the slight kink in where the cable would lay.



is this supposed to have the slight bend in it?
Ive had a gutful of the airbox and will go a decent set of pods. Any suggestions in this regard. The fleabay specials would be hard pressed to filter anything but gravel and sawdust.


I made an enquiry with the filter factory in fyshwick about putting an insert in them as they look good but they suggested uni filter instead. At least there made here in Aus.
http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d297.html

after a chat with the helpful bloke at motogarage ive listened to reason and am going to perseverve with the standard air box. now just to hunt up some new rubbers.
I straightened that curve as well and will ease off on the steroids when i put it back in.

I am going to perseverve with the standard air box.

Good call Davo....

Ta. At the moment im trying a dozen different remedies for softening hard rubber airducts and see how i go. I was also advised to replace the air jet due to elongation but these parts are rarer than rocking horse shit. my other option is to find a set of later model carbs such as the ones of a gpz 600r semi flat slide that will suit and then go the pods.or maybe zr 550? Whats your next project kawadave?

Found these...but at $105 delivered....http://www.cmsnl.com/products/duct-air- ... 140731073/

My next project will probably be a shed extension Davo.

Thanks Kawadave. Partzillas got them at 11 bucks a throw but with the delivery it blows it out to almost same price as stealership. However when i priced a new valve with diaphram dealer was 240, partzilla 130 plus 40bucks postage so if i ever need one i know where im going.

Just scored a NOS diaphram/ valve to replace cracked one for a very good price off fleabay and will order the ducts but need to find new needle air jets.
Any suggestions?