4T OIL: does anyone use fully synthetic car oil of same rati

Hi, have bought an old zxr250 parody racer, good old thing over 50000klm. I have raced Japanese cars for years, so I appreciate using fully synthetic oils after break-in. Being hi-performance cars I'm also use to hi-revs (relatively speaking compared to bikes). So when it comes to changing the oil in the bike, can I use my SAE 10w/40 in it? I understand it's got a wet clutch, but the oils are made to the SAME sae standard. Any thoughts from old timers especially, not newbies who tell me how sick they're ninja 250r is compared to mine.

5 views & no thoughts????

Started my own research, turned up this "scientific" article, http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

worth considering when you she'll out the big $ on name brand oils.

semi or fully synthetic will be fine. mineral oils are only required for run-in periods

Yep - good car oils are perfect.

Stay away from oils with 'EP additives' they are the ones that will mess with your clutch.

Change regularly (the gearbox is a high shear application and tends to 'chop up' the long chain polymers). This is true of both bike and car oils, so either way - change regularly.

So is that "sir" spelled SiR?

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I use Valvoline Engine Armour 15W-40 semi-synthetic in all my cars and bikes. (Except two stroke!) Got 14 bikes and 3 cars on it. Goes on sale regularly and costs bugger all. Done well over 100000km on the stuff.

I use Valvoline Engine Armour 15W-40 semi-synthetic in all my cars and bikes. (Except two stroke!) Got 14 bikes and 3 cars on it. Goes on sale regularly and costs bugger all. Done well over 100000km on the stuff.

I've use that Valvoline in our cars for about 5 changes now bonester.

To the OP, stick to 10W40. Give the car oil thing a try if you're willing, but make sure you stick to something like what bonester uses where it's known it won't stuff your clutch up and is suitable. Most people will go for a reputable semi-synth bike oil like Motul5100, Silkolene etc. I've you got a lot invested in a track or race bike and you ride hard and often then full synth is the way to go.

On brands, I have extensive personal experience (that amazed me) of the fantastic detergent properties of Mobil oils - cleaning old sludged up engines, and keeping newly built engines free of any sludges/varnish/crud even in the really hot areas - bottom of piston clowns etc.. I wont use anything else.

I use only Mobil1 5W50 in the bike (I don't like the thinner oils in the hot Ozzie climate) because it's the best.
I use only Mobil1 5W50 in the race-car (I don't like the thinner oils in the hot Ozzie climate) because it's the best.
I use only Mobil1 5W50 in the car (I don't like the thinner oils in the hot Ozzie climate) because the poor car is abused and I'm never sure if I'll get round to changing the oil - what's it been now 20,000km? Not sure. Poor thing! Still pulls like a train at 331,000km.

If I couldn't afford Mobil1 I've had great results with Mobil SuperS semi-synth.

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Mineral oils in older bikes, at whatever spec the manufacturer recommends (10W40 etc)

For high-revving engines like the ZXR250 - you should use the best fully-synth oil you can afford.

For anything else (bikes) - Motul 5100 semi-synth is a great oil to use on a regular basis.

If I couldn't afford Mobil1 I've had great results with Mobil SuperS semi-synth.

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Pretty sure I used to run this in the bikes prior to discovering the Valvoline