Chain Cleaning

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Burky
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Post by Burky »

What's this method i hear about "Chain Cleaning" :? :?


ZX7 chain never got a "Cleaning" session, but the 10 will be done with Kero/toothbrush.

Just watch what you use and the effect on the rubber rings in the chain.
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Post by mick_dundee »

Kero and rag is gonna be the go tomorrow, at lesat that's the plan work/weather depending.
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Post by Ben »

just dont do this
not pretty, GRAPHIC

stolen http://kawiforums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=81039
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Post by Barrabob »

I use scott oil on the chain so all i do is start the bike in gear and spray kero liberally out of a squirt bottle and hit it with the hose and the oil doesn't leave any claggy bits to scrub at.
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Post by mick_dundee »

Have to register to view the damage so shan't bother, a bloke from nutrider also lost a finger cleaning his chain with the bike running, i'm happy to work wth neutral and no running motor even f it takes a little longer.
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Post by Waldorf »

mick_dundee wrote: a bloke from nutrider also lost a finger cleaning his chain with the bike running,
CAUTION! Blood! :wink:

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Post by Wattie »

i dont see the problem.... he's all good now :lol:
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Post by Neka79 »

hes not very clever i assume...
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Post by mick_dundee »

I reckon he might have learnt his lesson Neka, could be wrong though...
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Post by rotaboy »

i cant believe that ppl would even try this i even recon it would slow ya down by the time yourve started the motor then put it into 1/2 half the chain would already be clean if using a paint brush!
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Post by mick_dundee »

Never underestimate ppls stupidity!
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Post by mrmina »

dont fark around with wd40.

use kero and a rag
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Post by Jonno »

mrmina wrote:dont fark around with wd40.

use kero and a rag
*Chime in noise*
From what I have read chain manufacturers don’t recommend using WD40, RP7 etc as it penetrates past the "O"rings and liquefies and destroys the grease in the roller thus reducing the lifetime of the chain. (Not that I have noticed this). IMO- the idea is to remove grit that wears the "O"ring, x-ring/seal etc, then lubricating the "O"ring only not anywhere else as that will not do anything much to assist the lifetime of a chain and sprockets.
Basically any other place on the chain/sprockets will wear off within minutes and attract dirt, this is where the self oilers such as Scott’s etc do work very well. I don't know if the cost of an oiler outweighs the savings, some say they double the chain life and I suppose over a few chains it may be worth it if you have the bike for that long 8)

For cleaning I use kerosene with a small brush and old cake/baking tins to catch the crap (note* you can use the dishwasher to clean the tins and basting brush so your mum wont notice) :lol: it works well and although it can be messy I use bits of cardboard to protect everything during the whole process (ya don't want lube on ya tyre or chicky strips) , once clean dry off with a rag by hand (not by running the engine) :roll: then use a good chain lube, wipe excess off again with a clean rag. That is what I do, some of you will have other ways, it is also a good opportunity to check chain slack and adjust. (Do not run a tight chain, this may damage the gearbox, better to run too loose IMO)

I had 36000 km's when I sold my 12R and the chain was still good for another 10000km's :wink:
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Post by Shifty »

Put the bike in neutral on a stand.
Pour some kero on a rag.
Sitting at the back of the bike, rotate the top of the wheel down as you hold the rag against the chain.
Reapply kero/use a clean piece of rag as necessary.
Voila, chain's clean.

Kero evaporates quickly so by the time you've put down the rag and picked up the chain lube, the chain is well and truly dry. If you clean the chain while it's still a bit warm, you can then lube it straight away.

It's really only a 5 minute job... especially if you do it regularly.
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Post by mrmina »

Shifty wrote: It's really only a 5 minute job... especially if you do it regularly.
it depends how fussy u are. u can spend hours get the chain clean :roll:
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