95' zx9r Leads

[h8_rice]

Well I thought I'd put the zx9 back together after mucking around with milling a plug socket down so I could change the plugs.
I was taking one of the leads out and as usual, broke it !
I went down to the local bike shop, and all they could come up with is GENUINE leads $500 or something ridiculous because they come with coils, I explained I don't need half a bike, just one freakin lead!, so a set was all I'm after.

They guy at kawasaki mentioned something about buying the lead wire by the metre and making them, but I cant work out how a decent, reliable spark would come from just cutting and jamming the lead into the big long rubber boots that go into the engine. I dont see any other way of connecting the wire to the plug boots.

Any idea where I should go from here? I stuffed it back in and fingers crossed I can at least get to work tomorrow!!

[Kwak addict]

If you take the lead out of both the coil & plug boot ends you'll see a self tapper type thread that you "screw" the lead into, this gives you your electrical connection & stops them falling out as well.
I just replaced the plug leads on my racebike with car ones, I bought the top of the range 8mm silicone shielded, spiral core, blah blah items only to find they wouldn't fit in the coils or plug caps so I scrounged up some secondhand 7mm dia. Repco jobs from a dark corner the garage, whacked 'em in & it runs perfecto.
The added bonus of car type leads is that they are heaps more flexible than the hard plastic covered stockys so you can run/route them wherever you need to.
Tip; when using car type leads, it is advisable to either sheath them with plastic or rubber tube at any points where they overlap or cross or seperate them using the proper plastic clips (available from most Auto Parts shops) to eliminate the possibility of crossfiring.

[robracer]

If you take the lead out of both the coil & plug boot ends you'll see a self tapper type thread that you "screw" the lead into, this gives you your electrical connection & stops them falling out as well.

Tip; when using car type leads, it is advisable to either sheath them with plastic or rubber tube at any points where they overlap or cross or seperate them using the proper plastic clips (available from most Auto Parts shops) to eliminate the possibility of crossfiring.

100% correct, a simple tapered threaded screw is all that makes contact with the copper lead $500 bucks is a joke, I have a mob round the corner called "TopGun" that manufacture leads & the parts for car leads (if you get the good stuff) can be better than any of the the bike stuff.

[h8_rice]

I think I'll go that route, I'm just having trouble trying to get into the actual boot / it seems to be one big moulded piece and is enclosed??
I used to work at repco so I thought if I could scab some top gun stuff I'll be on a winner.

by 7mm do you mean 7mm plug boots? or the lead thickness you ended up using?

[robracer]

Sounds like 7mm (outside diameter) lead.

[h8_rice]

Okay bit of an update, When I had a closer look at the lead and the boot, you can see a contact up in the insides of the boot, on the lead end, it has a soft rubber plug in the end, with a hard copper wire poking in, and one poking out, I checked to make sure, but it seems it slides in and over the contact on the inside of the boot, and so far so good, she works!

After of course I found the fuel tap thread (For the switch) to be stripped and the bolt bent from the last owner (anger)
And I'm itchy as hell from cutting up an old exhaust to make a shorty can.

What a day,

next I have to sus this coolant leak out.