Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Good result Wattie. Everything mated up OK?

Sounds like the calipers are the easiest fix. Now just need another set to pop up on Ebay..

Drop a photo up I want to see what the black calipers look like on the bike.

I normally bleed at banjo bolt on master cylinder first then with the nipple cracked have the end of my finger over the nipple acting as a one way valve (GENTLY pulling lever) /

Or I just use the vacuum bleeder...

Have had one or two stubborn oned though. Will have to try the cable tie trick.

I dont think its happened yet, no pics ?..............

.........they must look shit

Mick C wrote:

Strika wrote:...Another trick which I use to get the last little bubbles out, is to tie a cable tie to the brake lever tightly pulled, overnight...

It works...I did it with the old 9 and I've done it on the 10. Gos did it on the sportsbarge recently and was raving about it

need to bleed mine a bit.. gunna try this...

do i need to crack the fluid cap to allow the air out?? or JUST cable tie the lever and nothing else??

Neka79 wrote:

Mick C wrote:

Strika wrote:...Another trick which I use to get the last little bubbles out, is to tie a cable tie to the brake lever tightly pulled, overnight...

It works...I did it with the old 9 and I've done it on the 10. Gos did it on the sportsbarge recently and was raving about it

need to bleed mine a bit.. gunna try this...

do i need to crack the fluid cap to allow the air out?? or JUST cable tie the lever and nothing else??

just cable tie the lever hard against the bar overnight or longer if you can, the excess air will rise to the top air space in the resoivoir, then top up if required, but leave a good pocket of air at the top when topping up.

Then you will have FUGGIN ROCK HARD LEVER !!!!!!!!!!!!!

cool... i want a hard leaver (dont we all??)

gave the front a good squeeze (dont we all??) last night, and rather than stand on its nose, the lever squashed my fingers (im a 2 finger man)

Neka79 wrote:cool... i want a hard leaver (dont we all??)

gave the front a good squeeze (dont we all??) last night, and rather than stand on its nose, the lever squashed my fingers (im a 2 finger man)

I've heard your a 4 finger man ?

you need air in the top of the revoisvior (spelling) to give the fluid space to expand when it heats up.

Hoffy's had no air in it when we changed his pads, and we couldnt push the pistons in far enough to get the new pads in.

the 10 one i only have 1/2 full. plenty of room to move and less chance of spilling out if it expands

Wattie wrote:you need air in the top of the revoisvior (spelling) to give the fluid space to expand when it heats up.

Hoffy's had no air in it when we changed his pads, and we couldnt push the pistons in far enough to get the new pads in.

the 10 one i only have 1/2 full. plenty of room to move and less chance of spilling out if it expands

yea makes sense.. cheers mate...

i tried it... it was a bit better...

might re-jig it again (had to ride it today).... leave it a few more days and see if it helps...

hey guys when you tie the brake lever to the bars do you have the mc or caliper nipples done or undone. I know it's a silly question but I am starting to get VERY frustrated and want to resolve this issue.

Blurr wrote:hey guys when you tie the brake lever to the bars do you have the mc or caliper nipples done or undone. I know it's a silly question but I am starting to get VERY frustrated and want to resolve this issue.

Nipples must be done up! or they will oooze
You want to force any bubbles up & back into the MC hence keeping it open by the cable tie

Blurr wrote:hey guys when you tie the brake lever to the bars do you have the mc or caliper nipples done or undone. I know it's a silly question but I am starting to get VERY frustrated and want to resolve this issue.

after you bleed it, do everything up, then ziptie your lever. then tap the lines and stuff a few times, get any bubbles up, then leave it overnight or so, then cut the tie off and your good to go.

thanks mate and that signals the time for me to walk away and leave it for the night before I start launching the old sydchrome's around the place.

Strika wrote:Another trick which I use to get the last little bubbles out, is to tie a cable tie to the brake lever tightly pulled, overnight. Compression forces the bubbles up into the M/C and back into the air!

Thread for the dead I know, but having heard people talking about this I tried it on the KR, it's been on there since Sunday. I cut it off just now, and O M G, is it wrong that a 1985 bike has the best lever feel of all the bikes in the shed?



So anyway, now the 750 and the 9 are sitting in the shed with their front brakes cable tied . Anyone know if it works on hydraulic clutches too? Can't hurt to try, I've got one on the clutch lever of the 750 to see how it goes.

Thanks for the tip peoples...

Fuggin rock hard lever !!