Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

I would purchase a radiator cleaning additive/flush and run that in there for a couple weeks to remove the rusty scale and whatnot throughout the system, with straight water. Drain and refill with water and drain again after going for a ride to get the system nice and hot.
And only then when clean water comes out perhaps put in the proper coolant.
With my radiator I just flushed it with a hose for 20 min..... I plan on reoplacing the coolant every 6 months.

Wattie when I got the 400 race bike & drained the water (no coolant allowed) IT WAS RUSTY AS ALL HELL

I though about this the other week, as I run straight water in the trackie..... I wondered if I should run coolant or some other additive?

robracer wrote:I plan on reoplacing the coolant every 6 months.

IF you are replacing that often I would advise the use of distilled water NOT tap water - especially if you are in a hard water area,
When the water has "boiled" once, then the calcium carbide in suspension has been deposited, re-boiling will not produce any more calcium carbide no matter how many times you boil it..... Fresh water = fresh lot of CC to drop out of suspension .... It'll fur your tubes / radiator up just like your kettle

smithy5 wrote:I though about this the other week, as I run straight water in the trackie..... I wondered if I should run coolant or some other additive?

Check the circuit rules.... you may not be allowed to use certain types of coolant

Straight water is best for the trackie mate - in most situations. If you are racing the bike, then you can't use glycol-based coolants *at all* anyway. There are some additives (expensive) to raise the boiling point of normal water, but its a woftam I reckon. If you only do ride days though, normal coolant is not a problem.

Rob's advice is spot-on for your problem Bushy - try that first before you spend hundreds at the workshop.....and if you do need a *new* radiator - try and get the old one repaired first if at all possible. This is a way cheaper option, all it may need is a spot weld here or there in the core to plug some holes.....

Have you pulled the oil-filler cap off yet ?? Or drained the engine oil ? It may be worth doing this, just to see if the oil is milky.... - if it is, then you have blown a head gasket...

Brad,

run coolant. it will be fine for track days. just not racing.

yeah the guys at team moto are flushing the system the best they can.
so if they still say its still to rusted try robs idea? then replace radiator? 2000 for radiator i feel like crying

Bushy wrote: $2000 for radiator i feel like crying

Dont cry if you can get one for around $250 all up posted
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06-KA ... ccessories

i could probably order it then put it on myself? ill just hope they can save it.. i hate waiting. really do

Just checked on bikebandit and they have them for $737USD, so chuck $80 on for postage (and for few other goodies) and AUD$860 later youll have a new radiator.

That is a genuine brand new part also.

Is there any local companies or for that many any company that make aftermarket radiators for bikes, perhaps something a bit more heavy duty?

Saki wrote:Is there any local companies or for that many any company that make aftermarket radiators for bikes, perhaps something a bit more heavy duty?

Looked into this when I had the crim & most aftermarket ones are flat for car's or are the wrong size so its off to the wreckers or get hammered for a new one.

smithy5 wrote:I though about this the other week, as I run straight water in the trackie..... I wondered if I should run coolant or some other additive?

When maintaining my son's 125GP bike, I used to remove the water after a race meeting and refill with glycol based coolant and run up to operating temperature before storing the thing.
Preparation before a race meeting included draining and storing the coolant, flushing and refilling with de-mineralised water ( available at safeway and supercheap @ around $1 a litre in either 2 or 5 ltr containers )
Never a problem with rusty or discoloured water and inspecting parts during all too often engine builds, no fur, no corrosion.

ok sweet they are confident the radiator is saved they have to weld a little bit due to a hole from the rust... it was blocked when rust was there, but now its been flushed out its needs welding. So hopefully i get it back on friday and stays at a happy temprature. (crossing fingers)

Sounds good Bushy, coming for a ride this Sunday? PM me if you are interested

Hey guys got the bike back from team moto. they are really top guys i would definatley use them again.

but.... just a question, my bike didnt go over about 105 degrees until i gave it a bit and it was flashing 'Hi' is this normal? it started to cool down and stopped for an hour or so and went again and was fine and didnt get over 95 degrees but was alot cooler. whats the normal running temprature of a 636? is it normal to get over 115? am i worrying about nothing?