Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Ok a few questions.

1/. I need to know where is the best place to hook in to make an add on accessory switchable by the ignition key, do I need mains power to fire a solenoid which I have an inline fuse installed (15amp but will take advice on correct fuse size) atm I have a direct line from the battery powering it, do I need to have a relay in and run a wire to an always on source after the key is on?

2./. Headlights, I want to install a switch to turn them on/off, whats the best way to do it?

3./. On most Jap or just on a ZX12R do they have headlight relays as standard?
(the diagrams I have seen don't actually show them but the service manager at local K says it should have them?)
Thanks in advance

For adding accessories, I always seem to end up using a relay hooking into another wire that gets turned on by the switch. Just remember to put the fuse on the current carrying wire AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERY AS POSSIBLE.

I think relays for the headlights would be standard, otherwise you'd have to have a high current wire running through places you don't want high current wire, like the 'bars.

Number 2 might depend on how the switching works now, and how you want to change it's behaviour. What are you trying to achieve?

It can get complicated as there are junction boxes which will either have plug in relays, or built in relays...depends on how they made it.

Thanks for your reply,
I am trying to achieve lights on or lights off, yes the legalities I know about but I want to be able to do it all the same for my own reasons.

You'd probably need to get a hold of a wiring diagram to be able to figure out how to do it, and still use the original dimmer switch (high/low beam switch). On the ER there is a "Reserve Lighting Device" (on some models anyway) which does something (?) but all the lights seem to have wires that run through it.

You might be able to simply put a break in the main feed wire, and hook a relay into that, it should all work normally from there. Maybe The dimmer switch simply re-routes the earth, or at least I think it does.

Obviously, being a headlight, make sure what ever you do is done really, really well. And don't do anything you can't undo

I know on Suzuki's they use the same loom for all markets. The Europeans get a headlight switch, we don't. The plug from the RHS control pod just has bridges in it to make the headlights stay on permanently.

It might just be a matter of sourcing a Kawasaki control pod with the headlight switch in it and just plug it into the loom.

Or cut into the bridges and hook your own switch up across them. There probably is no relay and the loom / switches carry full load.

Felix wrote:You'd probably need to get a hold of a wiring diagram to be able to figure out how to do it,

Agree.
There's always more than one way to do this kind of stuffs, and it differs on different bikes. Get the diagram, study it, u should figure something out.

Cool, thanks guys

Be sure your regulator has a good connection to some big bit of metal (frame).

When you have your lights off, it'll have to disipate the extra power - about 110watts...

I've heard plenty of strories where lights have been unplugged and the regulator frys - most times on track bikes.

Felix wrote: Just remember to put the fuse on the current carrying wire AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERY AS POSSIBLE.

Good advice. I have wired accesories using the +ve post on the starter solenoid, which is *generally* located pretty close to the battery. It will always have a big meaty connection to the +ve side of the battery, and a decent-sized 'post' that you can take a connection from. Any accessory, wired through a normal automotive relay from this point, should work just fine. If they are spotties, or an air-horn, don't use them while cranking the bike over on the starter motor, or you will make-um smoke signals

You will need the wiring diagram to determine if any relays are used in the lighting circuit ( something I need to check on my own 12....). No guarantee at all they are used, most manufacturers simply wire the headlights through a fuse-box, then loom/switch/lights. Relays cost too much for the cheap bastards.....

Good earthing is very important. If your battery is in good nick, it should be able to cope with the additional charge when your lights are turned off.

To change a hard-wired headlight to switchable, just put a decent 20-amp toggle switch in the main feed to your headlights. If you want in in the switchblock, change switchblocks, don't be tempted to put a teeny-weeny toggle switch on the standard s/block ( no guts - will fry quickly....)

cheers
Dave

Good points to note thankyou.

Try and find an import breakers and see if they have a Euro (or UK) control pod. You'll probably find that your present wiring system will fit the switch on the euro model - they don't like to change much. That way you don't end up adding switched in strange places, it's on the bars where it should be.

photomike666 wrote:Try and find an import breakers and see if they have a Euro (or UK) control pod. You'll probably find that your present wiring system will fit the switch on the euro model - they don't like to change much. That way you don't end up adding switched in strange places, it's on the bars where it should be.

Sounds like the go, thanks.