What does everyone use to clean the air filter?
was thinking of giving it a proper clean and re-oil rather than just blowing out the crap.
I think the manual recommends something like kero.
cleaning the air filter
-
photomike666
- Apprentice Post Whore :-)
- Posts: 5956
- Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:01 am
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: Victoria
- Location: Melbourne
- Contact:
In the ole motoX days we used to buy air filter oil, not sure if it's for high flow filters though. Silkolene used to make a good one.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
07 ZX10R since new, tracky TBA, KX450F, 87 CR250 restoration, GT MTB - I've got serious thrill issues, dude
07 ZX10R since new, tracky TBA, KX450F, 87 CR250 restoration, GT MTB - I've got serious thrill issues, dude
-
Slow and wobbly
- KSRC Contributor
- Posts: 1541
- Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 8:51 am
- Bike: Scooter
- State: Victoria
- Location: Melbourne
Umm just to be sure.... I hope nobody is washing and oiling the paper element (?). Firstly the pre-filter foam element should be the only filter that should be cleaned. The paper element should be inverted and tapped on the bench to allow any debris it has captured to fall out. DONT USE COMPRESSED AIR. Using air can cause small holes to tear in the filter paper. And definetly dont use any solvents / cleaning fluids / or even water on the paper element, this can cause the fine particles it has captured to solidify and block the filter.
As for cleaning the pre-filter thats easy. Use kero or petrol to break up and wash away the old filter oil and the associated dirt and bugs it has trapped. Wring it out as firmly as you can to remove all the excess kero etc and then wrap it in a rag to blott it dry. I find that mum's good white linen is the best for this because when the filter stops leaving dirty greasy marks then you know it is clean and dry. The next step I take is to use shellite / white spirits to give it a quick rinse, dont need much just pour some on the foam and once again blott with a rag until dry, the shellite evaporates fairly quickly and that finaly is when you re-oil it. Use a good quality filter oil, I use Motul, and apply thinly. I use the spray as it is much easier to control the amount applied. If talking road bikes it should be done so that it is tacky, but not dripping wet and then wring out the foam to disperse it evenly throughout the element. Too much wont nescesarily do any harm but it will definitly affect the engines ability to breathe thus a loss of power and excess fuel consumption.
A couple of tips to assist with this relatively simple operation.
1. Do this at every service interval
2. Up to you but I replace the paper element with a genuine every 25000
3. When you re-assemble make sure you do it in the correct order ie pre-filter before the paper element. and facing in the right direction.
4. when installing the paper element into the airbox lightly smear some grease / vaseline around the rubber edge of the filter. This gives a better seal to the filter. You will be surprised the next time you open the airbox to see how much that alone can trap.
5. Whilst tinkering inside the airbox department dont be surprised to see some oil. This comes from the PCV ( positive crankcase ventilation ) wipe out any excess you may find.
6. Carburettor bell mouths have the inate ability to draw anything and everything into them, not unlike a black hole. So to stop screws, nuts, bolts or the whole workshop from being sucked into the void, place a rag over the top of them. And dont forget to take it out before re-assembling.
As for cleaning the pre-filter thats easy. Use kero or petrol to break up and wash away the old filter oil and the associated dirt and bugs it has trapped. Wring it out as firmly as you can to remove all the excess kero etc and then wrap it in a rag to blott it dry. I find that mum's good white linen is the best for this because when the filter stops leaving dirty greasy marks then you know it is clean and dry. The next step I take is to use shellite / white spirits to give it a quick rinse, dont need much just pour some on the foam and once again blott with a rag until dry, the shellite evaporates fairly quickly and that finaly is when you re-oil it. Use a good quality filter oil, I use Motul, and apply thinly. I use the spray as it is much easier to control the amount applied. If talking road bikes it should be done so that it is tacky, but not dripping wet and then wring out the foam to disperse it evenly throughout the element. Too much wont nescesarily do any harm but it will definitly affect the engines ability to breathe thus a loss of power and excess fuel consumption.
A couple of tips to assist with this relatively simple operation.
1. Do this at every service interval
2. Up to you but I replace the paper element with a genuine every 25000
3. When you re-assemble make sure you do it in the correct order ie pre-filter before the paper element. and facing in the right direction.
4. when installing the paper element into the airbox lightly smear some grease / vaseline around the rubber edge of the filter. This gives a better seal to the filter. You will be surprised the next time you open the airbox to see how much that alone can trap.
5. Whilst tinkering inside the airbox department dont be surprised to see some oil. This comes from the PCV ( positive crankcase ventilation ) wipe out any excess you may find.
6. Carburettor bell mouths have the inate ability to draw anything and everything into them, not unlike a black hole. So to stop screws, nuts, bolts or the whole workshop from being sucked into the void, place a rag over the top of them. And dont forget to take it out before re-assembling.
I got a sweater for my birthday. I realy wanted a moaner or a screamer.
