I found my old Performance Bikes Suspension Set up guide, so I thought I'd post some of its wisdom.
Sorting the basics
Before starting to change settings, check for other issues that affect handling…
Worn, mismatched, misaligned or over/under inflated tyres
Knackered headset, swing arm or wheel bearings
Blown fork or shock oil seals
Bent frame, swing arm, forks or wheels
Once all this has been checked, it’s time to set the static sag. This is the ride hight of the bike and is adjusted with the preload adjusters. This process will need…
A friend
A ruler
A long stick
Some cable ties
And possibly stands
Starting at the front, tie a cable tie around fork leg, lift the front off the floor and push the cable tie to the fork seal. Gently put the front down, sit on the bike and lift your feet and get in a normal riding position (with a friend holding the bike up). Measure the gap between the tie and the fork seal.
At the back, mark a point on the sub-frame or seat unit directly above the rear wheel spindle with the wheel off the floor. Run the rule from the marked point to spindle, sit on the bike in riding position with the wheel back on the floor, have a friend measure the gap again.
You now have your static sag figures. They should be 30% of the suspension travel, normally 35-45mm. Adjust the preload and measure again until your sag is within this range.
PB Suspension Set up guide part 1
- photomike666
- Apprentice Post Whore :-)
- Posts: 5956
- Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:01 am
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: Victoria
- Location: Melbourne
- Contact:
PB Suspension Set up guide part 1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
07 ZX10R since new, tracky TBA, KX450F, 87 CR250 restoration, GT MTB - I've got serious thrill issues, dude
07 ZX10R since new, tracky TBA, KX450F, 87 CR250 restoration, GT MTB - I've got serious thrill issues, dude
- Strika
- VIP MEMBER
- Posts: 8373
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 8:02 am
- Bike: Yamaha
- State: Victoria
- Location: Melbourne
If you havn't seen the other thread, be careful with those sag figures. For most road bikes these are much better numbers.
Road bikes- 30-35mm rider sag
Race bikes- 25-30mm rider sag
Also remember riders weight has an effect on springs. Often springs are a compromise. So a heavier rider really needs a stiffer spring. But most people can't do this, so sometimes less sag will work better of you are a heavier rider. If I was over 100kgs, I would move more toward 30mm as rider sag for the road, whereas, a lighter rider can get away with 35, or if really light 40mm even!!!
It's a black art I tell yas!!!!!
Road bikes- 30-35mm rider sag
Race bikes- 25-30mm rider sag
Also remember riders weight has an effect on springs. Often springs are a compromise. So a heavier rider really needs a stiffer spring. But most people can't do this, so sometimes less sag will work better of you are a heavier rider. If I was over 100kgs, I would move more toward 30mm as rider sag for the road, whereas, a lighter rider can get away with 35, or if really light 40mm even!!!
It's a black art I tell yas!!!!!

"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me" Hunter S. Thompson.
There are really only two questions in life. 1.Which way do i go? 2.What is the lap record?
There are really only two questions in life. 1.Which way do i go? 2.What is the lap record?
- Smitty
- VIP MEMBER
- Posts: 10912
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:59 pm
- Bike: ZX12R
- State: Victoria
- Location: 3rd rock from the Sun
- Contact:
iow...less sag = more initial preloadStrika wrote: Also remember riders weight has an effect on springs. Often springs are a compromise. So a heavier rider really needs a stiffer spring. But most people can't do this,
so sometimes less sag will work better of you are a heavier rider.

GOTTA LUV the 12R!!