But arnt we talkin a zx6 i think?Shorly they arnt that price for a zx6 battery??????The self maintaince ones are the dearer ones(the ones that are sealed) and if price is an issue you can alway buy just the general purpose type ones that will fit the space and they are prolly around the 60 to 100 mark depending on where ya buy and what brand.Neka79 wrote:thing is mate...some bikes run batteries that are $250.... ask red Dave..best he could get me was abt $220....mrmina wrote:for around $60 i agree with rocketrocketrod wrote:Dont pissfart around with all that shit,if the batteries cactus,get a new one,simple as that really.
Battery Not Charging (or charging badly)

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That's correct... YOu could get a new battery for between $60 and $100 for it Stereo...rocketrod wrote:But arnt we talkin a zx6 i think?Shorly they arnt that price for a zx6 battery??????The self maintaince ones are the dearer ones(the ones that are sealed) and if price is an issue you can alway buy just the general purpose type ones that will fit the space and they are prolly around the 60 to 100 mark depending on where ya buy and what brand.
Neka's battery was a top end Yuasa jobbie cause Honda's need all the power they can get...


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Ah yes I see your point Davered_dave wrote:[
Neka's battery was a top end Yuasa jobbie cause He needs a battery that doesn't leak when he flips it and it rolls over and over and over spraying shit and pieces of crap all over the place finaly landing upside down and on inspection the battery is fine.





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If its a new battery and the voltage doesn't go up, then it *probably* is the regulator which is stuffed. There are some simple diagnostic tests you can do with a multimeter to determine any problems with the unit - check the manual.Stereo wrote:If I chuck a battery in, and the voltage doesnt go up when I rev it, does that mean it IS the regulator rectifier or could it be the altenator? (do bikes even have one?)
Most bikes have an alternator, either located at the end of the crank, or behind the cylinders/under the carbs/injectors. (Some trailbikes only have a magneto unit, no *alternator* as such .)
You need to do a continuity test across the alternator outputs, these are the (normally) 3 wires that go up into the regulator/rectifier unit. The continuity tests will determine if there are any shorts to earth, or open circuits in the alternator, either of which will cause charging problems.
Hope this helps.....testing with a multimeter is really straightforward, you just need to compare your readings with the manual specifications to see where the problem is.

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At least the Farking thing charges the batterymfzx6r wrote:Ah yes I see your point Davered_dave wrote:[
Neka's battery was a top end Yuasa jobbie cause He needs a battery that doesn't leak when he flips it and it rolls over and over and over spraying shit and pieces of crap all over the place finaly landing upside down and on inspection the battery is fine.
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By placing a top battery in a honda you are trying to make fruitsalad out of sheep shit !
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and i think the alt puts out about 90 or so volts AC for the reg/rec to make its 14.5 v DC out..Gosling1 wrote:If its a new battery and the voltage doesn't go up, then it *probably* is the regulator which is stuffed. There are some simple diagnostic tests you can do with a multimeter to determine any problems with the unit - check the manual.Stereo wrote:If I chuck a battery in, and the voltage doesnt go up when I rev it, does that mean it IS the regulator rectifier or could it be the altenator? (do bikes even have one?)
Most bikes have an alternator, either located at the end of the crank, or behind the cylinders/under the carbs/injectors. (Some trailbikes only have a magneto unit, no *alternator* as such .)
You need to do a continuity test across the alternator outputs, these are the (normally) 3 wires that go up into the regulator/rectifier unit. The continuity tests will determine if there are any shorts to earth, or open circuits in the alternator, either of which will cause charging problems.
Hope this helps.....testing with a multimeter is really straightforward, you just need to compare your readings with the manual specifications to see where the problem is.