Tune/carb clean

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wypuk
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Tune/carb clean

Post by wypuk »

hey all
Im just wondering how to clean and tune the carbs in the ol zzr
Hopefully its gonna get reg soon and i wanna get it goin abit more ready
its idling rough varying upto 500 rm lol
so yeah
im thinking clean carbs and tune them (synch?)
its got a single pipe so i think its runnin abit rich so a freer needle might jsut be the go

so yeah any1 got any ideas on how to do that? i just need to be pointed in the right direction koz atm im just looking at my wallet and thinking brighton kawa..... it makes me cry
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Re: Tune/carb clean

Post by Gosling1 »

wypuk wrote:....its idling rough varying upto 500 rpm.....
Yep, thats a carbie synch needed if ever I heard one....you need vacumn gauges or mercury balance-tubes in order to balance the carbies yourself..... (there is another, much cheaper way to do this, but most people turn their nose up when I mention piano wire.... :wink: :shock: )

If you *really* want to clean the carbs yourself, you need an air-duster to blow all the internal carbie orifices clean , after giving them a liberal spray with Clean'R'Carb ......

A single pipe ? If its a better-breathing system than stock, it will make your jetting 'leaner', all things being equal. Raising the needles will richen the mixture between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle.......you may need to go up a size or 2 in main jets as well....

Knock yourself out mate.......its heaps of fun doing your own maintenance...

8)
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wypuk
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Post by wypuk »

ye ive learned heaps
i jsut want it to idle steady, pick up the front with power (2 inch dont count) and get abit more responsivness

when i get abit of cash together im gonna go -1 front koz i need a new chain anyway
but im seriously lacking power
I wish i had wings....
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x Gpx 250 crap wheelie candidate
x GPZ 250 - push starting magic
wypuk
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Post by wypuk »

i dunno if its better or not
but i kno the zzr comes with 2 exhausts n i got one and its carbon fibre lol
and the inside is all mesh with no visible baffles so it makes me think its a resonator lol
also i think its runnin abit rich koz im gettin shitty fuel economy....
I wish i had wings....
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x Gpx 250 crap wheelie candidate
x GPZ 250 - push starting magic
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Post by bonester »


Yep, thats a carbie synch needed if ever I heard one....you need vacumn gauges or mercury balance-tubes in order to balance the carbies yourself..... (there is another, much cheaper way to do this, but most people turn their nose up when I mention piano wire.... )
Mate do tell! :)
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Post by mike-s »

+2 at the back is better than -1 at the front, the chain will last a bit longer as the turning circle isn't as harsh as when you go -1 at the front.
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Re: Tune/carb clean

Post by MickLC »

Gosling1 wrote:... (there is another, much cheaper way to do this, but most people turn their nose up when I mention piano wire.... :wink: :shock: )...
I thought the bigger problem was the School of Music getting the shits every time you turn up and lift the cover on the Steinway with a pair of side cutters in your hand :wink:
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Re: Tune/carb clean

Post by Gosling1 »

Mick C wrote:.......I thought the bigger problem was the School of Music getting the shits every time you turn up and lift the cover on the Steinway with a pair of side cutters in your hand :wink:
Lookout !! He's on fire !!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: PMSL !!!
bonester wrote:...Mate do tell! ...
Its a really old method, its not as good as a mercury-tube balance (the best), but it is *almost* as good as using vacumn guages......

using a short piece of piano wire (say about 1mm dia) - not sure what key or note it is :wink: - this method only works on normal slide carbs, not CV's......and this is done with engine *OFF* !! :shock:

* Wind the idle screw up
*Slide the piano wire into the carby bore, so it goes below and past the slide
* Slowly wind the idle down, at the same time move the piano wire back and forth just a bit (maybe 5mm)
* When the slide touches the piano wire, stop winding the idle down - What you are trying to do is get the slide to *just* catch the piano wire and stop it from sliding back and forth
* Repeat for other cylinder/s

This method will simply get all the slides lifting from almost *exactly* the same idle point, its not *perfect*, but it will sure improve an idle that is fluctuating by 500rpm !! :shock:

Now you young whippersnappers, have I told you how to time a bike by using cigarette paper ?? ........yadda yadda......blah blah.......wet fart...... :lol: OH thats right these new-fangled siccles have ee-Lek-trahnic ignition eh ??.......

8)
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Post by Burky »

Old school workshop tactics :lol: :lol: Got to love it Gos :wink:




Side carbs........ :roll: buggar not injected :lol:
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Post by wypuk »

Gos does this method require the removal of the carbies or not?
i had a bad experience on my gpz aand since then i dread carbs lol

also any other painostring method of cleaning them up ;) like scraping the inside iwth a piano string lol
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Post by Gosling1 »

wypuk wrote:.....does this method require the removal of the carbies or not?
i had a bad experience on my gpz aand since then i dread carbs lol.....
No, but it does require removal of the airbox and rubber boots behind the carbies, so you can get the wire into the carbie intakes.....

Nothing beats a proper balance with mercury tubes, this is *the* most accurate way of balancing carbs or injection...

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Post by mike-s »

not just mercury Gos, theres other measuring gadgets like the sliding rod guages :)
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Post by Gosling1 »

:lol: indeed......

sliding-rod Guage Method #2 only recommended for *older* bikes with slide carbs.... :oops:

I have always found singles to be the easiest bikes to balance...... :wink:

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Post by MiG »

Gosling1 wrote: Nothing beats a proper balance with mercury tubes, this is *the* most accurate way of balancing carbs or injection...
I reckon my 2 m tall U column filled with ATF fluid will beat it. It's much bigger, but that's what gives it accuracy (I've also pinched the tubes to get the average pressure rather than a rapily fluctuating one).
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