Wiring an aftermarket regulator

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MrFaulty
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Wiring an aftermarket regulator

Post by MrFaulty »

Okay, I have just purchased an aftermarket regulator for my ZX6RR 2003
the regulator has 7 wires - 3 yellow (obviously to the stator and order doesn't matter) - 2 green and 2 red (there is nothing which distinguishes between the two reds or two greens)

The bike has the 3 stator wires (nice and simple), a white wire, a yellow wire, a brown wire, and a black wire with yellow stripe.

I have the wiring diagram from Kawasaki (thanks)
From what I can tell, the white is positive
the black yellow is negative

Running a light test meter from the batteryu to the other wires I think the yellow is positive which leaves the brown as negative. When I tried to hook this up I simply blew the main fuse, so I tried putting the brown wire to the positive and the bike got instant and continuous power (not started though), even without the key.

Aside from trying to get an auto elec out to look at it does anyone have any bright ideas cause I am well and truly stumped!

Thanks
Ben
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tim
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Re: Wiring an aftermarket regulator

Post by tim »

If you can, upload to the net and link to the relevant pages from the workshop manual and the instructions page for the regulator.
2008 ZX6R Special Edition
oldman

Re: Wiring an aftermarket regulator

Post by oldman »

Pretty hard to figure out the wiring without a schematic of how the regulator is wired. Wire colours are not standard between manufactors unfortunately. If you can post a schematic of your regulator compared to your old one somebody can possibly help, maybe even me if I'm sober.
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Gosling1
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Re: Wiring an aftermarket regulator

Post by Gosling1 »

Basil - most of the reg's I have worked with over the years, especially the Kawasaki ones, have a consistent colour-coding...

Black w/yellow tag (stripe) - earth.
White - regulated +12V direct to battery for charging
Brown - regulated +12v direct to wiring harness, not battery. Brown is a common +12v 'main' wire for heaps of kawasaki looms.
Yellow - not sure about this one. Its probably another +12v feed for a special purpose on your model.

I will check the wiring diagram for your bike - and the aftermarket regulator you got - was there no wiring diagram supplied with it ??

Here is the link to a 2004 ZX6R - it looks like the yellow wire from you OEM regulator, runs up to a 'junction box' - NFI what this is on your specific model....

http://www.mediafire.com/?f6roovjl7av

Its about 39 meg, and is the full parts/wiring manual for the '04 model - I doubt there would be too many differences between your 03 and this one ...

8)
".....shut the gate on this one Maxie......it's the ducks guts !!............."
MrFaulty
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Re: Wiring an aftermarket regulator

Post by MrFaulty »

Thanks, apparently the brown is not required for this regulator (something about regulating the voltage - FIIK)
The yellow does go to the juncion box, so I am not sure if it hooks up to the positive or negative on the regulator (I think the negative though) - which means that one of the positives off/into the regulator will also be not required.

Will see and cross my fingers - no, no schematic was supplied with the regulator :(

Thanks
Ben
MrFaulty
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Re: Wiring an aftermarket regulator

Post by MrFaulty »

Thanks everyone for the help - I should be an expert at this soon!
White wire was positive, black with yellow stripe was negative, yellow was another positive, and the brown wire is "superfluous to requirments"! something to do with voltage regulation which the aftermarket reg doesn't need. I have riden to work today (38km) and all appears to be working, although the output is only 13.5 volts which is a little low I think.

Once again, thanks

Ben (Basil)
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Re: Wiring an aftermarket regulator

Post by Gosling1 »

Good to hear that its working OK.

13.5v for a regulated output is fine - if it's 14v or over, you will eventually boil the battery dry.......

12v is really only a nominal figure - each wet cell in a 6-cell 12v DC battery, actually has a maximum fully-charged capacity of around 2.2v - 13.2V in total. But they normally don't hold that *max* amount, it will vary between 2 and 2.2, depending on the condition of the plates, the electolytic, etc etc - there are a few variables - temperature included.

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