no current to starter button

[ianlh]

1985 A2 900R. Just put motor into powder coated frame, everything works except motor won't spin using starter button. Used cable direct from battery to starter motor and motor spins. All interlock switches are ok. Normally I can fix stuff like this but am stuck.
Does anyone have any ideas please?

[Smitty]

.. def checked that the neutral switch and stand switches are working?

if they are def ok... then work backwards from starter thru loom to starter button
(check each connection and also for continuity)

[ianlh]

Hi Smitty
Yes the neutral and stand switches are working fine. I have a feeling maybe its the kill switch because I remember when ignition is on, the warning lights brightness changes very slightly when you flick the kill switch. I can usually find faults like this but have been at it for ages and has me stuck. Bet its something really simple.
Will have another go today.
Thanks for your reply.

[pkay]

I had the same problem with mine, went through everything. The side stand switch and starter lock outs will be a problem when you move off not when you go to start. I replaced the starter relays in the circuit board and that seemed to have fixed it for a second but no. After racking my brain for an age I then replaced the circuit board and have had no problems since. Easy job just unscrew and take off the connections and plug in the new one. Find them on eBay or from a wrecker, cheap as (and if you're lucky they'll have all the relays in as well which aren't cheap!).

[Greedy]

No starter relay on that model?

[pkay]

Is on mine?

[Gosling1]

depends on what you mean by 'starter relay'......every bike has a starter solenoid, which is basically the relay which allows current to flow to the starter motor directly from the battery. The GPz9 also has a couple of relays fitted to the main electrical board. These can get some serious corrosion issues for bikes used/stored anywhere near the coast.

The very slight dimming of the idiot lights when the kill switch is turned to 'On' - is 100% normal. What happens is that when you move the kill switch to the 'on' position, it switches battery current through the switch to the coils. The result is a slight reduction in the +12v signal to the idiot lights, which results in a very slight dimming and is not a sign that anything is wrong.

My guess is the words 'powder-coated frame' are the source of the problem. You need to make sure that every earth lead is working properly. When frames are powder-coated, this can often result in the new coating, preventing the earth bolts from providing a good solid ground connection. Check them all, especially the ignition coil brackets and the main earth lead from the battery to the frame/motor.

That is where I would be starting.