Bleeding brake lines

seraph · Post by **seraph** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 10:00 am

Hi all, my front brake feels absolutely stuffed since my off, just got progressively worse in the last couple days since a friend

touched my bike

and didn't know what he was doing

Gnome said I needed to bleed my brake lines, and I don't htink I can wait til the garage day thing since they are royally farked. Any chance someone can talk me through exactly what I need to do to fix this myself? Is this the sort of thing that is in my manual with helpful diagrams (haven't checked yet

)? Any help appreciated. Cheers -J.

bonester · Post by **bonester** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 10:19 am

Before you go bleeding lines, try this:
Pump up your brake lever until it is firm, and against the bar, and tie it there (I use some electrical tape to do this.) Make sure it is against the bar and leave it overnight....works a lot of the time.

seraph · Post by **seraph** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 10:31 am

Thanks for the tip, I'll try it tonight. Sorry for ignorance, but why does that work? And what's the deal with air bubbles anyway? How did they get there? Why are they rooting my front brakes? cheers -J.

Smitty · Post by **Smitty** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 11:34 am

here ya go.....

needed....
1 new container of brake fluid* (a litre bottle should be fine for a bike)
a piece of clear plastic tube 30-40cm long to fit over bleed nipples
a small container for used fluid ( an old margarine container is good)
10mm spanner ..for nipples (check the size for yours)

1) clean around the top of the master cylinder with paper towel
after getting the master cylinder level ..move the bars to do so
2) remove top of master cylinder..check fluid level is ok
3) fit tube up to bleed nipple and other end into marg container
4) slowly loosen bleed nipple as you squeeze the brake lever
and fluid (probably dark and yuck) should start to flow out tube
5) as the lever gets close to the bar, close bleed nipple
6) repeat until clear fluid comes out the tube
7) keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder as you do this
- do not let it drop too far (you may have to top it up a few times)
8 ) repeat on other front caliper (same goes for rear caliper)
9) if the system on your bike has an unequal length of hose
to each caliper or one caliper gets its fluid from another one
do the one furthest from the master cylinder first
10) top up master cylinder to correct level and refit the top.
11) watch the fluid does not splash as you refill or as you bleed
- if it does put paper towel over the top of and around the master cylinder
12) if you get some fluid on the paint work do NOT wipe off
- wash it off immediately with water. if you get some on your hands
wipe with paper towel (it will wash off when you are done)
13) recheck fluid level and that you have tightened the nipples up
14) check the brake lever is firm in your hand (under your foot)
after you are done.
14) if you have calipers with 2 bleed nipples, do the one the furthest
away from the hose connection or the highest one (air in the system rises)
15) if you are fitting brake pads as well, replace them before you do the
brake fluid flush/bleed

* buy the best you can..brand is not the important ..Castrol Motul whatever
but it must be at least Dot 4 spec and yes, you can the stuff cars use
(again at least Dot4 spec)
You do not need race spec synthetic brake fluid in the bike
and if you do put it, in you will need to replace all the rubbers in your brake system,
as they are not compatible with this stuff....

cheers

seraph · Post by **seraph** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 11:43 am

I don't think I'm capable of this, I didn't understand most of the words

I did know a couple, like "nipples" and "paper towel"

But thank you

Is it important that I do this immediately, or can it wait a couple weeks? Been getting worse...

-J.

Glen · Post by **Glen** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 12:28 pm

I wouldn't ride around with it seeing that it's concerned you enough to ask the question. It's happened because when your bike decided to take a lie down the fluid in the reservoir has shifted from the bottom to the top and it's taken a big gulp of air which then compresses a shitload more than the fluid when you squeeze the lever.

If you can get it to someones place close by it's a pretty easy job.

mrmina · Post by **mrmina** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 1:16 pm

seraph wrote: I don't think I'm capable of this, I didn't understand most of the words I did know a couple, like "nipples" and "paper towel" But thank you Is it important that I do this immediately, or can it wait a couple weeks? Been getting worse... -J.

nipples: like the things on tits but they are on the brake pad housing (if the bike is dirt enough, they will also be brown

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 6:45 pm

This might help.

http://motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_howto/

Smitty · Post by **Smitty** » Thu Aug 11, 2005 9:04 pm

seraph wrote: I don't think I'm capable of this, I didn't understand most of the words I did know a couple, like "nipples" and "paper towel" But thank you Is it important that I do this immediately, or can it wait a couple weeks? Been getting worse... -J.

mate
if you are not sure,don't stuff around
brakes are too important (life and death stuff..)
get a shop or mechanic to do it...should take ½hr tops

I published the how-to for those who have the knowledge

cheers

seraph · Post by **seraph** » Fri Aug 12, 2005 9:17 am

It's ok, I did it last night with the help of a friend who had dbled brake lines before

then we did his bike aswell. I'm a veritable expert now

Filled up on oil and scrubbed three weeks worth of dusk-ride-bugs off my bike too

I feel so accomplished. Might get a real person to check I didn't do anything glaringly wrong next ride though

Thanks again for the advice, it really helped.

As an aside, I was going to adjust my marshmallow suspension since I was feeling so capable last night but the manual said "To adjust your suspension, take it to an Authorised Kawasaki Dealer" and I was wondering whether that means my warranty would be void if I did it myself, or whether it's a really complex job that requires training to do. Any ideas on this?

Barrabob · Post by **Barrabob** » Fri Aug 12, 2005 10:34 am

Jamie you can adjust it yourself no problems it just means you will need some funny looking spanner that kawasaki didnt include in the toolkit.

Jonno · Post by **Jonno** » Fri Aug 12, 2005 4:18 pm

Won't effect warranty to adjust it, modify it maybe. Doesn't take long to do it properly

seraph · Post by **seraph** » Fri Aug 12, 2005 4:53 pm

Sweet, thanks guys. So if I want to stop bouncing twice after a speed bump, I need to tighten my preload, right? So I turn the little dial thing that gnome pointed out under my bike A. clockwise, or B. counterclockwise? And do I need anything special to do it? I may log on tomorrow and ask for more help. -J.

Jonno · Post by **Jonno** » Fri Aug 12, 2005 5:10 pm

seraph wrote:Sweet, thanks guys. So if I want to stop bouncing twice after a speed bump, I need to tighten my preload, right? So I turn the little dial thing that gnome pointed out under my bike A. clockwise, or B. counterclockwise? And do I need anything special to do it? I may log on tomorrow and ask for more help. -J.

no no thats the damping you adjust for that. Preload is to set the bike to your weight and I doubt it has been done. Might be better to wait for someone who knows the deal before screwing around with it

smek · Post by **smek** » Fri Aug 12, 2005 5:33 pm

zzr 250 only has adjustable preload. Can't do anything to the damping