Chain installation

Matt_'98ZX9R · Post by **Matt_'98ZX9R** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:49 am

Can anyone tell me how I would go about putting a cahin together without a chain tool?

Its not a clip linked one just the rivets.

Its a 530 DID chain by the way

Thank guys

ty · Post by ty » Thu Nov 03, 2005 8:39 am

AFAIK you can't.
If you have a rivetted chain you need a chain tool to press the link.
I'm sure one of the bush mechanics he'll will respond if i'm wrong though

ty

Duane · Post by **Duane** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:02 am

I know to get them off all you need is a angle grinder

Smitty · Post by **Smitty** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:17 am

ty wrote:AFAIK you can't.
If you have a rivetted chain you need a chain tool to press the link.
I'm sure one of the bush mechanics he'll will respond if i'm wrong though
ty

the chain tool is the way to go
but it can be done without it....

your really need 2 people
a cupla sets of Multigrips or pliers to squeeze the rivet joint together
and also to squeeze the link pin thru
and some engineers hammers (a small and large one)
to pein the link over....
while the joint is held in place
and
you will only do all of that in an emergency

expect blood loss as well

cheers

BladeBoy · Post by **BladeBoy** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 10:10 am

Matey,

Buy a Chain breaker tool from MCA, on sale ATM, about $60, save yourself lots of agro.

SNR · Post by **SNR** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 10:11 am

Mmm you could visit the bike shop and ask for a 'loan' of their 'link presser togetherer thingy' or do it your self!

As stated above expect blood loss and purple to black finger tips. You can use above tools as mentioned above to hold the link tight in place and round the edges off with a hammer. Some joining links have a small hole on two of the connecting pins. This is so that it can be round off to hold the plate against the 'O' rings and to keep the chain on.

Problem here is that you have to have the second person brace the chain from the other side to stop it from bouncing away from you when you round off the pins. A piece of timber pushed from the other side is good to hold it but the pliers/multi grips get in the way..........very difficult! Down side is that if you miss you could end up putting some nice dimple marks on the swingarm.
Not good.

If you want to do it a home join the links up and rotate the rear wheel so the joining link is about
3 oclock on the rear sprocket. A piece of decking timber placed down behind the link so it sits tight in the groove were the cush drive is and pull towards yourself to bring pressure against the link and the sprocket. (Saying this you can clamp the link with a tool and then use the timber to 'brace' each hit).

Remember you are only rounding off the head of the pins to get the 'O' rings to seal and to make sure the plate dosn't pop off. A chain pulls in 2 directions, forwards and backwards. Not sideways.

A punch with a small rounded head to sit in the small holes to mushroom the pins is the best way then finish with the ball hammer. Slowly making sure you have completly rounded off both heads.

At no time at all is beer to be consumed proir or while this takes place.
"wow that link went on easy, a bit tight but we got er on mate"......."man the beer tastes cold, want another"
" um, hey did you get spare 'O'rings with the chain"
NNNoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

snr

mrmina · Post by **mrmina** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:07 am

mate on the chain pin there should be a mushroom end and a normal round end.

1. insert pin.
2. place mushroom end down on a hard surface.
3. Use a punch set to flat the other end. Note: not too rough
4. File the punched to make it look neat.

SNR · Post by **SNR** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:38 am

Is that with the back wheel off..........don't think the chain twists that much hit it on a flat surface. Can do that if you have the swing arm off!

mrmina wrote:mate on the chain pin there should be a mushroom end and a normal round end.

1. insert pin.
2. place mushroom end down on a hard surface.
3. Use a punch set to flat the other end. Note: not too rough
4. File the punched to make it look neat.

At a loss, please explain!

snr

Maty10 · Post by **Maty10** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 12:51 pm

SNR wrote: If you want to do it a home join the links up and rotate the rear wheel so the joining link is about
3 oclock on the rear sprocket. A piece of decking timber placed down behind the link so it sits tight in the groove were the cush drive is and pull towards yourself to bring pressure against the link and the sprocket. (Saying this you can clamp the link with a tool and then use the timber to 'brace' each hit).

A punch with a small rounded head to sit in the small holes to mushroom the pins is the best way then finish with the ball hammer. Slowly making sure you have completly rounded off both heads.

Worked for me when I was in a pinch just before the island. Got the link in a good spot on the rear sprocket, then used a g clamp with a hollow boot to squeeze the outer plate on. Then found an old punch to mushroom the pins, and kept grinding the punch down to get a bigger face to open the hole.

ZX10R King · Post by **ZX10R King** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 4:28 pm

just take it all to a bike shop. They can do it all for you, and if they fuck it, they will replace FOC.

diesel · Post by **diesel** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 5:02 pm

Matt, where are you from.
I'm sure there's someone from here that can lend a hand.

balanse · Post by **balanse** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:26 pm

Im with Mark - buy a tool and save yourself some trouble.

Plus next time it'll be in the draw.

Matt_'98ZX9R · Post by **Matt_'98ZX9R** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:33 pm

ok guys got the chain together... used a blocksplitter and a hammer...

blocksplitter to brace the chain against then hit it with the hammer till the pins popped out then banged em flat... the look like all the other rivets so cant be too bad i guess..

now that its mobile again for some reason the top of the brak pad rubs more than the bottom and makes a griniding noise like you'd expect from the pad rubbing the disc... dont know why...

any chance the pad will wear into the new position and will be fine?

Gosling1 · Post by **Gosling1** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:38 pm

plenty *good

* advice out there about chains .......

a small G-clamp is the safest and easiest bet to squeeze the outer plate back on.....

but as you have it sussed now, thats good.

Uneven pad wear like that suggests to me that either

(a) your rear wheel is out of alignment ( maybe too much pressure with the block splitter ??

) or

(b) - pistons jamming in caliper ??

the grinding noise is probably the inside of the caliper wearing away on the disc ( how do I know this

well, its a long story

)

Don't rely on the pad wearing *in*, if it is sitting in the wrong position it will just wear out quicker - either pull it all apart yourself and fix, or take it to the shop.....

Good Luck

jpbikeboy · Post by **jpbikeboy** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:03 pm

believe it or not but I took the swing arm off to get the chain off. It only took about 30 mins.