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Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 7:00 am
by swabio-ACT
Aussie Ninja wrote:Nice one. I know it costs money but you need to get her back on a dyno to get it exactly right. Not that I can talk 'cause I haven't, but I'm sticking with the excuse that the nearest one is currently 7 hours away.
mate.... I know there is at least one dyno in canberra.... @ RObbo's and I think Axle's has one also..... ***paging gos....
Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:53 am
by christianzx6
cool thanks for the link, i counted the turns when i was taking the pilots out, and tried to match it when i put it back in, but i guess i probably didnt.
It is my first 600, the exhaust isnt stock (full yoshi - stainless), its also got a bmc race filter. Its running pretty shit atm, i think my 250 would give it a bit of trouble upto 100kph (its an rgv).
I'll try turning those pilot jets out 2.5 like u said. I basically want to learn to tune the bike anyway, and upgrade it as much as possible, killing myself on it never really entered my head. I just want it to dislocate my arms when i turn the throttle
Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:20 pm
by Aussie Ninja
swabio-ACT wrote:Aussie Ninja wrote:Nice one. I know it costs money but you need to get her back on a dyno to get it exactly right. Not that I can talk 'cause I haven't, but I'm sticking with the excuse that the nearest one is currently 7 hours away.
mate.... I know there is at least one dyno in canberra.... @ RObbo's and I think Axle's has one also..... ***paging gos....
That's an oolld post, from when I was living in Rocky. I've been to Axles and ended up with 102.
Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 2:02 pm
by swabio-ACT
Aussie Ninja wrote:swabio-ACT wrote:Aussie Ninja wrote:Nice one. I know it costs money but you need to get her back on a dyno to get it exactly right. Not that I can talk 'cause I haven't, but I'm sticking with the excuse that the nearest one is currently 7 hours away.
mate.... I know there is at least one dyno in canberra.... @ RObbo's and I think Axle's has one also..... ***paging gos....
That's an oolld post, from when I was living in Rocky. I've been to Axles and ended up with 102.
lol, of course...... that is funny!...
Posted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 11:08 pm
by SocialSecurity
christianzx6 wrote:It is my first 600, the exhaust isnt stock (full yoshi - stainless), its also got a bmc race filter. Its running pretty shit atm, i think my 250 would give it a bit of trouble upto 100kph (its an rgv).
go buy a factory pro jetkit and a +4 advancer
Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 1:48 pm
by christianzx6
Just called up wolf racing up here in qld, happy with the prices!
i havent ordered anything yet, and i wanted some advice from those on the forum.
I have a choice between a factory pro ignition advance rotor with +4 deg, or an adjustable muzzy ignition advance rotor. The factory pro is $94, the muzzy is $136. The difference in price isnt so large that i would be overly drawn to the factory pro item. I tried to find reviews of the muzzy ignition advance rotor to no avail, i cant even find the muzzy site! do they even have an official site? seems crazy that such a large company wouldnt have a website.
Ok my second choice is between stainless needles or titanium needles in the jet kit, i read on factory pro's site that the Ti needles didnt perform so well? maybe im just dreaming that i read this. as with before the difference in price isnt enough to make me go the cheaper option, its $180 or $205, close enough to go the Ti needles if they are notably better.
As a side point, i thought that Ti had similar properties to steel except for weight, like strengths n stresses were essentially the same as a standard (not overly expensive) steel. If weights the main factor, and the carbs mikuni designed to have the needles pulled up by a certain vacuum, would the drop in weight actually be a bad thing? Would it pull the needles up more than designed? perhaps i dont understand the workings of the carbs well enough yet, as they obviously cant be bad if companies use Ti needles and charge a little extra for it.
Edit: Just went back and found the part on the factory pro site about needle's n jet materials:
Needle Jet material and surface coating affect the wear rate.
Unplated brass wears quicker than nickel plated brass.
Stainless Steel needle jets KILL aluminum and titanium needles (yes, we tried it!)
Sadly, titanium is a terrible, quirky material material to use for needle jets.
Its under N for Needle Material in the guide.
Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 3:33 pm
by Aussie Ninja
I'd just go for the factory pro advancer. I talked to Marc about them and he told me that +4 is as much as you can go without over advancing the top end. Plus it's not like you can pop the hood and change the timing you've got to take an engine plate off, which has a gasket that will probably tear. My scoot has a full yoshi, Factory jet kit and +4 advancer and works a treat. I've only got my bum dyno for the comparison to my bike stock, but I think 9 or 10 ponies isn't out of the question.
Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 8:34 pm
by SocialSecurity
those prices are ok. i wouldnt really bother with an adjustable rotor, as your going to have lots of fun as it is adjusting the jetkit
+4 is usually a pretty safe figure. run 95 octane fuel.
that info on the factory website is talking about needle jets, not needles.
Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:33 am
by KaneMortlock
Heard the titanium needles were to put up with race fuel (which must be more aversive than usual fuel?)
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:36 am
by christianzx6
thanks for the advice, i just wanted to make sure that factory took their own advice regarding this part:
Stainless Steel needle jets KILL aluminum and titanium needles (yes, we tried it!)
As in, they would not send out stainless steel jets in the titanium needle kits, if the only difference is so you can run race fuel, im not gonna go for the Ti. Well thats good, cheaper option both times!