Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Any owners of either link pipe along with the akra slip on care to share/explain whether they gain any hp, lost some low end torque on your butt dyno, excessive after run pops & how loud the bike has become since deleting the secondary chamber.

FWIW, the secondary chamber is not a CAT on 09+ zx6r's; got an email from akra explaining that a PC, Juice box etc isn't necessary for a slip on + link pipe, however if your chasing HP then a PC is advised.

Yeah the Cat is actually inside the headers on this model.

The reduction in torque is because of the change in back pressure by removing the secondary chamber between the headers n pipe. Fine on my tracky but not on my roady. You either live w it as its probably not hurting anything, the stock ECU can adjust or consider a PC V and map to get it running properly. If u go the PC n map route please let us know how u go!

Maybe just keep her above 10K rpm

Or alternatively Ill swap ya the Akra and link w a hotbodies and you can have that extra small amount of torque back

Cheers for the response.

At the moment I have a slip on order; weighing up whether to get a link pipe.

Anyone using the healtech TRE to address the pulled back "timing" in the lower gears from factory? If it does work, it should improve low end torque.

Had a TRE on my old zx10. Worked Brilliantly! And from reading other forums alot say its a good cheap mod. It tricks your ECU to run the 5th or 6th gear map (cant exactly remember). Not sure if your dash gear indicator will just show 6th though? Does the TRE include a gear indicator?

Good question.

Email response from Healtech:

The XTRE does not have an own gear indicator.

The factory in-dash gear indicator will show all gears correctly with the TRE in place.

Kind Regards,
/Norbert
http://www.healtech-electronics.com

I originally had M4 pipe then changed to akra slip on and link pipe. Didn't like look so changed akra link to pinebox link which allowed covers to go back on. Have not put it on dyno but really haven't noticed any real change down low in revs. I was looking at fitting PCV but can't really justify that amount for little gains.

2010zx6r wrote:I originally had M4 pipe then changed to akra slip on and link pipe. Didn't like look so changed akra link to pinebox link which allowed covers to go back on. Have not put it on dyno but really haven't noticed any real change down low in revs. I was looking at fitting PCV but can't really justify that amount for little gains.

Is the M4 growler louder than akra slip on + pinebox or vise versa, any after run "pops"/backfire?

blackster wrote:Good question.

Email response from Healtech:

The factory in-dash gear indicator will show all gears correctly with the TRE in place.

Oh Good! Could be an option for the roady Let us know how you go if you get it!

The afterrun / popping / backfiring is the clean air system isnt it? Ive yet to cut it off but am about to change the air filter so will do it then. Its a simple process and on here somewhere!

Search Kleen Air Mod... Lots of pages come up!

Its basically removing the airbox sending clean air into your headers to burn off excess exhaust emissions. As I just read, this is for race use only and as we all law abiding citizens we wouldnt do this to a roadbike

fireyrob wrote: this is for race use only and as we all law abiding citizens we wouldnt do this to a roadbike

pfft it should be done to most Ninja's

Got bored and did the Kleen Air Mod on the 'cough' trackie

Completely remove side covers, seat, fuel tank and top of the airbox.

Once u get to where the filter is, to remove the rest of the airbox its a single bolt at the top. Then on each side of the frame remove the plastic bungs (spelling?)

Using a long 3mm Allen Key you need to loosen the clamps that hold the rubbers onto the air inlets. ( not sure of that term either )

The airbox should sit up reasonably easy after this!

Disconnect the hose leading from the airbox down to the kleen air system (see picture its a grey hose)

Remove the kleen air module from the two air hose connections. The 2 black hoses connected to the silver plates.

Cut a length of the grey hose disconnected and connect the metal plates so they simply just are connected (ie the module now isnt connected and the air is free to pass between these plates for whatever the hell it does)

Leave the module connected to its electricals and leaving all 3 air connections open just cable tie it somewhere neatly. See pics

Now somehow you need to block the airbox plug up. I used a bit left over from the grey hose with a boat rubber bung and cable tie to secure. Hopefully this wont budge ever!!!

Replace airbox ( I found it easier to loosely connect up the clasps previously removed from underneath the rubber covering the air inlets before placing into position then tightening once in position )

Check however you secured the airbox if u did it like me that its not impeding anything.

Replace everything, turnover and happy days no more popping, no FI light and on budget

Done this on Tapatalk will try and upload some pics next...

Cool!

I'll need to do this soon so I can use the auto tune on the Bazzaz! Will def keep an eye on this thread.

The tapatalk timed out trying to upload the pics... This rain has slowed the wireless I guess! And the pics were just from my phone and using a torch. Thats the best I could do

Thanx to Blurr for a phone call to advise re the clasps and to Wattie for permission to do this to my own bikes

Oh and while I was at it I threw in some K & N air filters

Nice post, however I prefer watching her do it.

looks like an old model