bonester wrote:
One advantage of a Kawasaki chain is that it comes in one piece- no joining links- the disadvantage of this is that you need to remove your swingarm to install the chain! Otherwise the aftermarket chains are identical (DID brand I think from memory) but you need to join the chain- two methods are used- a clip link which the easiest but prone to fail (don't do it on a powerful bike such as yours) and rivet link which is the way to go but you need a special rivet tool. :
Chains are much like tyres as far as OEM to aftermarket differences. The factory may specify a certain type/grade/quality of chain, which is more often than not different to the aftermarket chain from the same supplier. I have never been able to get the same mileage from an aftermarket chain as I have from the OEM stuff. Mind you the last two I had, didn't remain in my posession long enough to replace them so they may have changed in the last few years, but i doubt it.
On the link front, after 20+ years of road and track riding, I have never had a split link come apart on me. I even race with them. Provided you replace the link if it is ever removed, no problems.
The peen/rivet links (ones which require a peening tool) can still be used even if you don't have a peening tool. I did a mates chain and sprockets two weekends ago on an R1 and used a Peen link. I just clamped the backing plate, used a hole punch to spread the outer pin ends, then used a flat drift to complete the peen. As we didn't have a socket big enough to undo the front sprocket, that was done by a dealer the next week, and he had my work double checked by him
and the mechanic thought it had been done with the special tool. So provided you use common sense it's easy enough a task to complete.
"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me" Hunter S. Thompson.
There are really only two questions in life. 1.Which way do i go? 2.What is the lap record?
