Engine Oil

Slow and wobbly · Post by **Slow and wobbly** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 7:47 pm

Why 3000ks? please explain

Neka79 · Post by **Neka79** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:21 pm

Slow and wobbly wrote:Why 3000ks? please explain

yea id like to kno too...
i run motul 5100 cos i like it, it gives better gearchange then shell..and castrol wasnt bad, but not as good...

these days oils are designed to last 10,000km..so running mine 6000km doesnt bother me...that being said i ran my last lot 9000km (long story- got back from a 3000km trip, forgot to change it, then put another 1800km on it over the last few weeks when stores were closed etc) and it hasnt hurt it....
oh and my bikes a 2000 model with 60,000km on it...no dramas...

jamie (housemate) also does his every 6000km (filter at 12000) and he's got 80,000km on his 01 blade...

why waste ur money by changing it every 3000km??

SocialSecurity · Post by **SocialSecurity** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:34 pm

changing motul every 3000km sure would be a waste, wouldnt feel so bad about changing cheap stuff every 3k tho

krusty · Post by **krusty** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:48 pm

SocialSecurity wrote: . even safeway oil is good, as its SG rated, and the service manual for my 9R says anything SG rated is fine

I get semi-syn oils. I've used Motul, currently using Mobil and have a Caltex lined up to try. When I've had Motul 5100, the dealer puts in 15W-50 at services and I used 10W-40 between and found the 10W-40 feels better on gear changes in the cooler weather but in summer its fine. The Mobil I've got in it now is 15W-50 and I don't feel any difference in the gears.

I have used some Freestyle (BigW brand) 20W-50, SF rated, $7.50/4L, in my old GPz with engine flush to give it a clean before I stripped it down.

I use Castrol chain lube, ~$7/can at Supercheap.

Barrabob · Post by **Barrabob** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:09 pm

I was doing 3000 kmoil and 6000km filter with motul and went to fully synthetic silkolene pro t 10/40 at 12000 kms.

Just like to know i have fresh clean oil floating around in there when its screaming and if they go a little over they might get to 4000kms but atm it would be 2 years between oil changes with the lack of track days.

Bike will go back on the road in april.

Neka79 · Post by **Neka79** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:36 pm

hmm another thing i dont like is changing brands of oil..sum ppl say that its real bad (different materials etc dont go together well)....so ive stayed with motul from abt 24,000km...up til then it was shell...the motul in a motor which had done more km was shit loads better than that in a newer motor....go figure...
oh and id never use car oil ( i kno a few ppl who do)

oh and i have poured diesel thru my motor on a few occasions....long story...

krusty · Post by **krusty** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:20 am

neka79 wrote: oh and i have poured diesel thru my motor on a few occasions....long story...

I've read that diesel oil can be good for bike motors because they have higher concentrations of zinc & phoshorus which are good for highly stressed motors (like bike engines) but have the downside of being suspected of being bad for cataletic converters in cars, but that's not as much as a problem for bikes, its a waste of weight having one.

Car oil can require more research to find out whats in it, some are friction modified or have molydebium in them and they are bad for wet clutches. Others have low amounts of phosphorus or zinc which is not so good for bike motors.

greenmeanie · Post by **greenmeanie** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:21 am

For me ....anywhere between 5 -6000 k's oil & filter change.

Neka79 · Post by **Neka79** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 3:20 pm

not deisel oil....DEISEL!!...
after i had the side welded up i had to flush it & run it with diesel to get the shit out....

Slow and wobbly · Post by **Slow and wobbly** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:11 pm

Car oil can require more research to find out whats in it, some are friction modified or have molydebium in them and they are bad for wet clutches. Others have low amounts of phosphorus or zinc which is not so good for bike motors.[/quote]

Its not so much bad for the clutch as the clutch is bad for the oil. The higher heat and pressure placed on the oil from the clutch and gearbox means that it breaks down and doesn't provide adequate protection. Unless absolutely nescessary use only oil that is produced specificaly for motorcycles.
Having said that I have heard of vegetable oil being used in an emergency.....

hoffy · Post by **hoffy** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:20 pm

why 3000 k's?

call me particular, well the standard service intervals are 6000 k's, and I like to change the oil between these 6000 k intervals, so 3000 k intervals are evenly spread between services.

I could proly leave it to 6000k's, but I love new oil, it makes me feel good.

hoffy · Post by **hoffy** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:27 pm

also, I only use Mineral based ? oil. It's about $25 - $30.
it's also easier to change oil on a naked bike, 20 mins max. I wouldn't rip fairings off to do it.

Btw: I've heard it is a bad idea to swith back to mineral oil once you have had synthetic oil through your engine.

SocialSecurity · Post by **SocialSecurity** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:04 pm

and likewise a bad idea to go from a lifetime of mineral oil to synthetic

krusty · Post by **krusty** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:06 pm

hoffy wrote:why 3000 k's?

call me particular, well the standard service intervals are 6000 k's, and I like to change the oil between these 6000 k intervals, so 3000 k intervals are evenly spread between services.

I could proly leave it to 6000k's, but I love new oil, it makes me feel good.

I change at 3k km too. In my bike's owners manual (and probably everyone elses) it says to change oil more frequently when you do a lot of constant high speed or start stop riding. I've always got the zzr on the freeway with the revs around 8000rpm. Considering some parts of the motor don't have ball bearings and are spinning pretty fast, fresh oil won't hurt.

Slow and wobbly · Post by **Slow and wobbly** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 6:49 am

Here is some interesting info in regard to Automotive Vs motorcycle oil.

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm