oils aint oils

blackninja · Post by **blackninja** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:37 pm

ive been reading the viscosity ratings on oil containers and theres not much difference between high performance car engine oils and motorcycle engine oil and am now wondering whats the difference between the two?

Barrabob · Post by **Barrabob** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:47 pm

About 80 bucks a bottle.

Bike oils dont use friction modifiers which make the clutch slip there are some caroils which will do the job but for what its worth i stick to the bike specific stuff.

a google search on the subject would be imformative and i know most of the lists on the good cheap stuff are made in the usa so we dont have the product local.

blackninja · Post by **blackninja** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:02 pm

yeah okay so the car oil is actually sliperyer because of the friction modifiers would that make it better for the engine and gearbox allthough no good for the clutch?
some of the car oils a pretty pricee too

javaman · Post by **javaman** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:37 pm

Well after some soul-searching I put Valvoline Premium XLD at $17 (5lt) as opposed to Motul 5100 at $50 (4lt).

Here is the specs: Motul is API grade SG, Valvoline is SJ so a no-brainer there. Manual says to use at least SG grade. SJ stuff ... good

Yes my only worry was clutch-slipping, but that proved to be of no-concern. Wheelie ... no problems

Gear changes, could not feel any difference.

Of course the only advantage is Motul being synthetic, but then why graded at SG?

Poyda · Post by **Poyda** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:50 pm

Viscocity is also an issue to keep on mind, if the oil is too thin, especially when hot, it just won't do the job properly.

I'd rather spend $50 on a product designed for bikes, Valvoline make them too, rather than something that has ingredients that probably arent doing you any favours.

Just my 2cents

SocialSecurity · Post by **SocialSecurity** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:53 pm

ive been using $12.99 valvoline SG oil .... but only because safeway had none of their $10.99 safeway brand SG oil

kawasaki recommend any SE, SF or SG class oil, in a wide variety of grades. im using 20w-50 i think, and it was on the ok list... tho i would prefer 15w-50, or maybe 10w-40

motul 5100 is great stuff, but way too expencive.

krusty · Post by **krusty** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:21 pm

javaman wrote:Of course the only advantage is Motul being synthetic, but then why graded at SG?

I think they stick to SG because the newer ratings may call for lower amounts of zinc or phosphorus, which are clutch safe anti wear additives. If you want an oil with lots of zinc look into some of the diesel oils.

I've tried Mobil S 15W-50 semi-synthetic and Caltex Havoline semi-syn 10W-40 (even mentioned it can be used in bikes on the label) in my 250's without problem.

Smitty · Post by **Smitty** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 pm

blackninja wrote:ive been reading the viscosity ratings on oil containers and theres not much difference between high performance car engine oils and motorcycle engine oil and am now wondering whats the difference between the two?

..pardon?????
the difference between say Penrite SIN or Castrol EDGE 0-40w or Mobil1 and a top grade bike oil is huge

firstly a fully syn oil is never recommended on a bike
until its fully run-in (2000k+)
then
most car oils have friction modifiers in them
...use it in a bike and goodbye clutch
and finally
If you luv ya bike gearbox..don't use a car engine oil
the car oil is missing the bits that protect gearbox bearings

the oil gradings may be the same..SE SF SG or 10w-40
but
in short..use a bike oil!

my 2c

SocialSecurity · Post by **SocialSecurity** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:28 pm

the SG oil i bought (havoline sorry not valvoline) says its suitable for motorcycles and cars

...and so do kawasaki

javaman · Post by **javaman** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:14 pm

The valvoline actually is used for car gearbox as well

so there you go, one type of oil for my civic (engine and gearbox) and zx6r

All as recommended by the manufacturers...

SJ is better grade sure, and longer engine life, but yeah there is a big mental barrier to actually do it. Must be an oil company conspiracy thingy

hell.. there used to be oil marketed specifically for honda where I come from and that took me quite a while for the 'enlightment' ...

Just out of curiosity I did a google on Harley Oil and look... there must be heaps of people who swears on these oils.. apparently different oil for different HD engine too

http://www.oilsandlube.com/Harley-Amsoi ... 0Chart.htm

krusty · Post by **krusty** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:47 pm

The Harley D's oil is a 50W oil. They must have found anything thinner leaks and blows smoke, especially since many have quite a few years on them.

The SJ, SL deal I think is to do with the API specs setting lower minimum amounts of zinc in the oil (zinc is good for reducing valve wear from memory), so some can have too little to be good for bikes so you either have to look at the manufactuers data sheet or I know with some SJ stuff I have looked at there is a JASO VTW rating which I believe has to do with zinc levels.

mrmina · Post by **mrmina** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:05 pm

mate i reckon they are the same.

u just slap a pic of a motobike on the front and the price tag moves up by $50

Gosling1 · Post by **Gosling1** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:44 pm

Castrol GTX can take the blame for the 'friction modified' legend......

If the oil does not say 'Friction modified' anywhere on the bottle,
and is rated to manufacturers specs (SG, SJ, 20W50, or 10W40), whatever, then it is *absolutely safe to use* in your motorcycle engine.....but that Castrol 'friction modified' oil is never to be used under any circumstances........unless you own a Bimmer or Moto Guzzi

HD's and older Dukes use straight 50w oil because they have to.

Smitty is dead right about not using fully-synth until you have properly run-in your engine..........although I would put the full run-in amount a bit further up the scale, min 6000k.

ps - if you run a mineral-based oil in an older air-cooled motor, don't bother changing to a synthetic or semi-synth........its basically a WOFTAM, and will *accelerate* oil leaks and/or oil weeps due to the change........

Mina is also spot-on...........and if you slap a photo of a boat on the front, well fuck me dead, you can triple the price !!!!

Smitty · Post by **Smitty** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:59 pm

mrmina wrote:mate i reckon they are the same.

u just slap a pic of a motobike on the front and the price tag moves up by $50

huh?
not sure about that
4 litres of Mobil1 10w-30 for my cage...$65 trade($73 retail)

even a cheaper oil like Penrite 30 is $35 retail
but
4 litres of Castrol 4T for the bike $32..retail
or GPS at $40

of course you could try BiGW 'Gold' at $5.99 for 5 litres
its a bargain

not sure about the rebuild costs though.........

krusty · Post by **krusty** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:15 pm

Gosling1 wrote:
Mina is also spot-on...........and if you slap a photo of a boat on the front, well fuck me dead, you can triple the price !!!!

2stroke or 4stroke?

I get the Valvoline 2stroke outboard oil (usually best value and is in a 5L bottle) and I use it in both boats and lawn mowers for a few years. We go through a fair bit of 2stroke oil with our mowers and I found it cheaper to buy outboard oil rather than mower oil. I checked with valvoline and they said it would be fine, just not to use it in bikes.

Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

oils aint oils

oils aint oils

oils aint oils

Re: oils aint oils