how often should chains and sprockets be changed?

[robracer]

Dude do not under any circimstance use WD40 on your chain the solvents penetrate your o rings & destroy the lube inside
Thats what chain lube is for!... BTW kero is perfect for cleaning

[fadz90]

I only used it to get one of the links to move properly becuase it seemed abit stiff, i will clean again tomorrow and put some lube on it.
thanks for that rob

[robracer]

I only used it to get one of the links to move properly becuase it seemed abit stiff, i will clean again tomorrow and put some lube on it.
thanks for that rob

If the links are stiff & kink a bit as they come off the chain then the chin needs TLC like you have done just keep the lube up & you will notice the chain will work better

[fadz90]

just one question left with the chain, when the split link goes into the first tooth in the rear sprocket the chain becomes so tight like maybe 15mm play if not less and when it comes out it becomes so much looser to about 25 mm play, i want to tighten it abit more but then in some spots it wil be so tight it might snap.

Are chains like that with most bikes?

[Gosling1]

only when they are just about rooted........

if you are getting noticeable tight spots like that, then the chain is well on the way to chain heaven. No amount of lubing will bring it back.........

buying a full chain and sprocket 'kit' will kill your wallet. On the other hand, buying the sprockets seperately (aftermarket), and a chain on its own, is considerably cheaper in my experience. You will need to do this soon.

[IsleofNinja]

just one question left with the chain, when the split link goes into the first tooth in the rear sprocket the chain becomes so tight like maybe 15mm play if not less and when it comes out it becomes so much looser to about 25 mm play, i want to tighten it abit more but then in some spots it wil be so tight it might snap.

Are chains like that with most bikes?

Hey Fadi , It is very common for the split link to be dry / siezed. Problem is that most people either don't lube correctly or accidentally wipe the lube of when installing the split link / chain. If the link is siezed it will cause the chain to loosen / tighten as it goes around the sprockets.
I would invest in a new split link and fit it making sure the the round end of the clip faces the direction of travel . I always use plenty of HTB grease on the pins etc and make sure the O rings are seated properly. Cost for a new link around $7.00 and may well save your casing!!
Patience and good tools are key here as it's a bitch to fit new split links as you have to compress the Orings while you instal the clip!

You may well find the pins on the old split link will be badly worn when you replace it.

PS you do not want any less than 25mm play mate should be 25-35mm .

Also as a rule of thumb [plus previous posts ie ty] , If you chain is adjusted correctly and you can pull the chain away from the rear sprocket from the rear she's stuffed!!

Motorex chain lube is as good as any and cheap. You can get the large and the mini can which in handy for longer rides.

It is better to lube your chain AFTER a ride rather than before. Ie if the chain is warm the lube gets into the pins where it belongs rather than just rollers and link plates. FYI

Cheers

[lifeofcrimeguy]

I've seen a few (in this thread) people say that they replace when they see their rear sprocket is dodgy, but for me the front sprocket has always copped it before the rear (well I've only been through 2 sets so far). Just curious as to what that might be symptomatic of? Too hard on the throttle or not adjusting chain often enough are my two thoughts...

[fadz90]

i was quoted $147 for the kit,

includes- 13 tooth front sprocket,
48 tooth rear
and 520 chain.

thats the cheapest i've got so far and im pretty happy with it to be honest.

cheers

[robracer]

Sounds pretty good, but remember you get what you pay for

[fadz90]

unfortunatly i know that, but for now i just want it back on the road, and use it safely, next set will be better, actually next bike will be better!!
whats a good brand for sprockets, what do you guys use?

[IsleofNinja]

unfortunatly i know that, but for now i just want it back on the road, and use it safely, next set will be better, actually next bike will be better!!
whats a good brand for sprockets, what do you guys use?

JT sprockets [as per prev' link ] are pretty decent budget sprockets. Have been running them on the GSF1200 for many years now with no issues.

ONLY D.I.D or RK O-ring , X-ring etc chain.

You would be wasting your money with alloy or exotics on your bike Fadi IMO.

NB I only pay around $175.00 per kit for the GSF considering it comes with quality 530 RK X-ring chain - plain(gold $30 extra)


L.O.C.G
Normally by the time the rear cog is showing signs of wear the front is completely shagged!!Many ppl overlook inspecting the front as it means removing the cover which on some bikes [with incorperated clutch slave] is a right pain in the ass.
I try to make a point of checking every 5000km or so including the wear on the splines/condition of lock plate/tightness of retaining bolt/s as applicable.
Front will normally wear quicker than rear simply due to the number of revolutions it does by comparison to the rear.

[ty]

I've seen a few (in this thread) people say that they replace when they see their rear sprocket is dodgy, but for me the front sprocket has always copped it before the rear (well I've only been through 2 sets so far). Just curious as to what that might be symptomatic of? Too hard on the throttle or not adjusting chain often enough are my two thoughts...

Dunno, I rarely saw my front sprocket so couldn't tell.
Normally I replaced based on the chain. A pointy rear sprocket was always an indicator, but the decider for me was normally the chain itself - either reaching the adjustment limit, or too many tight spots (if I wasn't looking after it).
ty

[lifeofcrimeguy]

Front will normally wear quicker than rear simply due to the number of revolutions it does by comparison to the rear.

Well that makes a lot of sense. My front is starting to look fairly similar to that picture actually, but my chain and rear are in pretty good condition. Just goes to show that it's probably best to go and check all three. Also a good excuse to get in there with the toothbrush and kero and clean out the front sprocket casing and surrounds. My skin was black for just on a week. Perhaps a more consistant maintanence schedule is in order... and some gloves

[Magpain]

AMC mag had a thing on chain maintaince and they reckoned it was ok to spray a little bit of WD40 on before your lube to stop rust. And they reckon after washing and drying going for a 5 minute ride before re-waxing or lubing it up to get it hot.?> won;t that wreck your chain riding it clean?

[Bogan]

buying a full chain and sprocket 'kit' will kill your wallet. On the other hand, buying the sprockets seperately (aftermarket), and a chain on its own, is considerably cheaper in my experience. You will need to do this soon.

You can usually pick up AFAM sprockets on this board for $50 posted, or failing that you can buy an AFAM sprocket/EK chain kit from Ron Angel Wholesale (or a distributor who can get it from them) and as long as you get standard gearing they'll guarantee the sprockets for life as long as you continue to buy your EK chains from them. There was a guy on here who could get them who I got mine through.